Arizona & Utah - 2025

This trip was instigated because of the easy accommodation in Sedona, Arizona by Martha's friend, Laura McCarthy, who, along with her husband, David, had moved there from Purcellville.  A savings on someplace to stay and a break from the dreary winter.

Flights from Richmond through Charlotte to Phoenix were uneventful, but we've now determined that sitting in cramped Economy seating is no longer tolerable.  We'll pay a little extra for some more room….though it pisses me off that the airlines have contrived these circumstances to bilk passengers for every last dime.

We rented a car though Sixt, which we'd used in Europe.  A Toyota RAV4, which was adequate, though it seemed a bit dated and didn't have the features we have on our Hyundai Santa Fe.

It was a two hour+ drive from Sky Harbor Airport up to Sedona. It was a stark transition from urban, dumpy, low-rise sprawl that reminded me of LA to a constantly shifting, desolate desert landscape that was at once mountainous, then to flat scrub, then to odd formations of stone pillars or petrified dunes.   The one constant that we were to see throughout the trip was a lack of high vegetation - trees - that made the landscape wide-open, with big skies and breathtaking vistas.

The first three nights we stayed with Laura & David.   They'd been visiting Sedona for a number of years and when they finally retired, decided to semi-move there.  While they sold their Purcellville house, they haven't yet made a commitment to buy anything in Sedona.  Instead, they're doing a series of short-term rentals that give them the flexibility to travel without a heavy mortgage commitment.

Laura & David are big hikers.  Very outdoors-ish people.  They've come to know the whole Sedona/Oak Creek community and trails.  They took us on a hike - Munds Wagon - that was originally supposed to be four miles.  That turned into five…..then six….and finally to seven, with a 942 foot elevation gain!   The next day we did a shorter route - Slim Shady and Made in the Shade; both right in the Oak Creak area.

We were impressed with how easy the hikes seemed.  It helped that the temperatures were only in the 50s (it was early March), but the low humidity also made for a low-sweat experience that would have been more taxing anywhere in the east.  The landscape was also more captivating.  Hiking in the east is typically through woods with a destination view.  But out west, the view is everywhere, so the trek itself is more entertaining.

On the second day we went to Tlacquepacque arts and crafts village in the afternoon (an outdoor shopping center that is historic in its architecture and very attractive).  We also visited the Chapel of the Holy Cross, designed by Frank Lloyd Wright's son Lloyd. Very crowded, but it was a Saturday.

David and Laura also came along while we explored downtown Sedona.  While less so during our visit, we were told the traffic was difficult, though the place is cute and upscale, if a bit touristy.  Like many 'bougie' tourist places….t-shirts, ice cream and novelty shops.  In this case with a 'western' flair surrounded by dramatic red rock mountains.

After we left Sedona, the first part of our tour was to the Grand Canyon NP.   Martha had been to the GC on a visit to my mother many years ago, but I'd never been.    We stopped in Flagstaff to get groceries and supplies for the week, knowing that food options would be limited on some of the trip. Laura loaned us a cooler and a bunch of very useful supplies.  This strategy of having things to knosh on - which we've also done in Europe - adds to the economy of a trip - and also the convenience of not having to go out for every meal.   Flagstaff is cute but very small.  The surrounding area is higher with a hilly, evergreen look. There were snow-capped peaks and a ski resort.  A big contrast with the lower, wide-open, desert-like Sedona, elevations.

At David's suggestion - he had many - we stopped at Cameron Trading Post on our way to Grand Canyon for lunch and gift shop browsing.   It was an impressive structure and restaurant staffed by native people with a wide assortment of native American art. The drive to GCNP east entrance, which is less crowded than the south entrance, is through native owned land with little stands along the road where trinkets are sold (the stands were run down and sad looking). Most were closed or abandoned, probably because of the time of year. The residences we saw from the road were also run down and in vast, remote open land.  Most were trailers or little shacks.  It looks like it would be a hard place to live.

At Grand Canyon NP we stayed inside the park at Bright Angel in the GC village; old and a little run down. Our room in a “cabin” was tiny. El Tovar, the other, grander, hotel would have been a better option. Staying inside the parks saves time coming and going, a good option for shorter visits of only a couple days, like ours.

Our first stop was at an observation tower that's one of the highest points in GCNP.  From there we wandered along the Canyon edge in the village. 

I'd begun to feel a bit funky on the drive up and that evening started to get the shakes.  The next day we woke to find a light snow had fallen, with a brisk chilling wind and the Canyon covered in clouds.  No great sightseeing to be had. And weather made my illness worse, with bitter trembling, numb hands and a fever.

Limited by the weather, we simply went to all the visitor centers and museums in the park. Those included the Kolb Studio, early photographer brothers in the GC.  Many stories of the tough the women who braved early canyon exploration and development, notably a Mary Colter, who was the architect for Bright Angel, among other structures.

Our last morning in GC dawned clear and bright, though still quite chilly.  We had some of the worst coffee we've ever tasted and made our way out of the Park; pausing for a herd of Elk to meander across the road.   I was surprised at how small the footprint of the GCNP actually is.  The Park itself is only a small percentage of the Canyon's hundreds of miles.  And while I'm sure it's mobbed during the summer, the infrastructure is not very extensive.

Our next stop was Zion NP; about a five hour drive.   The best description of Zion is 'majestic.'  Huge mountains of sheer rock structure canyons that dwarf the pitiful humans.  It is very distinctive and exuded an almost spiritual atmosphere.

We stayed at the Zion Lodge in the park which was nicer that Bright Angel and nestled up next to a gigantic boulder.   After we arrived in the late afternoon Martha went for a short hike while I slept.   The next morning I rallied enough for us to take a shuttle up/down the valley - the preferred route.  Unfortunately, we didn't have time - nor did my condition allow for - any hiking.

The next stop on the itinerary was Moab, Utah; a central location for several other parks.  On the way, though, we stopped at Bryce Canyon NP.  It was bone-chilling cold and my illness was getting worse, so we just stopped at a few overlooks - Bryce Point being the best.   The hoodoos are very distinctive rock formations that look like legions of withered statues with uniform stipes of weathering and erosion.  It'd be a great place to return for hiking and we determined that the cute nearby town of Kanab would make a nice launch stay, an hour or less from the above two parks.

After leaving Byrce we continued the drive to Moab.  It was going to be a long drive - some 4+ hours.  I was feeling pretty ill by this point, so Martha had to drive it.  The route is astonishing with miles of dramatic, desolate landscape changing constantly.  Lots of up and down over mountains and with some elevations over 7000 or more feet. It often looked like an alien planet. Just barren nothing.  At one point we were warned of 105 miles with no amenities - which can give you pause. And there were very, very few cars on the road which was a little eerie but made the drive less stressful.  I was reminded of the difference in perspective of easterners who fret about a lack of space and the reality of western vistas. 

We went through several small towns on the way and they seemed deserted.  All the businesses appeared to be closed. Maybe they are seasonal, but it gave us the feeling that the world had ended and we were the last to know.  It's easy to see that in living here everything else in the world would be of little concern.

When we arrived at Moab, I'd decided to visit a clinic.  Getting in just before the 8:00 closing at the Moab Regional Hospital, I was quickly seen and given a diagnosis of COVID.   It was quite a shock, since I'd had repeated vaccinations and been exposed to Martha's two illnesses.   The unfortunate recourse was to stay in bed with over-the-counter medications.  Fortunately, we were already booked four nights at the Hyatt Place, a nice hotel on the north side.   We even extended our stay an extra night due to my illness, so it was lucky to be in a comfortable place with lots of amenities, and this was very close to Arches NP.

I was laid up most of the time, so Martha took the opportunity to get out and see the sites.  Some of her commentary follows…..

Downtown Moab has a few cute blocks with upscale shops and lots of restaurants. The residential neighborhoods don’t look too appealing though. But it was good timing to be someplace with a clinic and stores since George was in bad shape for several days. We ate our meals in the room as we did in the previous places… but had to cancel all dinner reservations.

Arches NP

• This was my favorite park on this trip (then Zion then Bryce). I went there four times while in Moab. The first was mid to late afternoon on a day that was cold, windy and off/on snow flurries or sprinkling rain. It paid off to brave the weather because the sun started to come out and it made the sky and light very dramatic. I got some of my best pictures that day.

• The day George went there with me was in mid day and while it was of course still spectacular I realized that the golden hour is really the best. I went back that same day to see the sunset (by Windows arches) and was not disappointed!

• My favorite spots in the park were Windows and Park Avenue. Of course all of it is amazing and mind blowing. And the snow capped La Sal mountains are in the background providing a gorgeous contrast. Seeing them at sunset was a treat, for a brief time they are pink on top from the sun’s glow.

• I was astonished to see someone rock climbing at the garden of Eden section. Apparently it is allowed and Moab is a haven for thrill seekers. I will not be telling Nathan about this.

Dead Horse Point State Park

• I went here by myself while George was laid up, and hiked the east rim trail to the point. It was along the edge of a canyon, with the La Sal mountains in the background. Very impressive. These mountains were covered by clouds the first day or two we were there, so it was nice to see them when it cleared up.

• Very sad story about how this park got its name. Years ago horses were corralled at the point and auctioned off. The ones that didn’t get sold were abandoned there to starve and die.

• The land along the roads to the park had no fences and cattle roam freely. You have to watch for them in case they are crossing the road. Crazy!

Canyonlands NP Islands in the Sky section

• This was not my favorite park but still very impressive. Since it is all canyons along the Green and Colorado rivers, the views are wide and vast. It makes photography more challenging, and I did not feel like I captured it well.

• Many areas have coral sand which is so pretty.

• Mesa arch is a great spot in this park.

• We would love to see the Needles section of the park if we return (there are three sections to Canyonlands that are divided with separate entrances).

On our last two days I'd recovered enough to make a visit to Arches and Canyonlands.  I was limited in how much I could exert myself, but wanted to at least see the highlights.  

Arches is truly impressive with huge blocks of rock that seemed to look like ancient cathedrals weathered by time and guarded by twisting spires of rock that resembled the melted statues of some long lost race of gods.   Like other parks we'd visited, there was a spiritual aura in wandering along these giants. 

We visited Canyonlands on our last day and could only visit one of its areas.  It's truly huge and while we would have liked to see "Needles," that would have to wait for another trip.  Shaped much like the Grand Canyon, Canyonlands is shaped by the Colorado and Green Rivers and, as Martha noted, the vistas are enormous and breathtaking.  The views go for miles and the erosion through layers of rock over millenniums create a cascade of colors and textures through valleys and statuesque formations.  It wasn't the first time, but these landscapes make one feel not only small in size, but also small in time.  In comparison to their age, long before us, and long after us, we're just a brief whisper.

At the end of it all, the American southwest was a revelation to us.  We can now see why so many older folks opt to retire there.   While I'd hate to be there in August, there is an easy lifestyle accommodated by a dry climate, nice restaurants and presumably other similarly-situated folks to hang with.  So we've started to plot longer periods there during colder months to counter Michigan summers…..after we get through the next year's excursions of Washington State, London, Portugal and Thailand!!

Martha included tips and hacks for future trips: 

Other notes

• Altitude did not seem to bother us except for my ears when driving, because the altitude kept changing.

• The sun is intense and it’s easy to get burned even with sunscreen.  Bring a hat with a full brim, not a baseball hat.

• The air is of course super dry. Lots of lotion needed.

• Try to visit parks in early morning and/or late afternoon. The light is so much prettier at those times. And it will be less crowded.

• The dates for this trip were 2/28 to 3/11. By 3/9 the crowds started to pick up with spring break vacationers. So while the weather is dicey I still think it’s worth it to go before mid March. Seeing these parks without crowds is infinitely better and more magical.

• Don't forget to go outside and look at the stars at night!

• There are great bike trails in Moab and if we return I’d love to rent bikes. Preferably e-bikes.

• Remember to bring a national parks lifetime pass card. (Seniors rate!)

• In the beginning of the trip I felt a little uncomfortable with how remote and desolate the landscape is. Then I got used to it and began to appreciate it. There is something special about having so few cars on the road with you and wide open spaces that allow you to see forever. I could never live there but it’s wonderful to experience it.

• There is still a wild, wild West feeling about much of the area. On the drive from Moab to Sedona just over the state line we came across wild horses wandering onto the road. And at a gas station there was an abandoned dog wandering around which made us terribly sad. We also noticed hitchhikers and a few people walking alongside the road, which we never see anywhere else.

• Page AZ has several things I would like to see: The Wave (tickets by lottery), Antelope Canyon, and Horseshoe Bend. That and Kanab would make a good itinerary for another trip.